Tag Archives: Baking & Pastry Arts

Day 4 in Pastry Arts … Working a Sweat

We were supposed to receive power at the culinary institute this morning, Jean-Luc told me as I got in.  Great!  But power or not, we were gonna have class, so it wouldn’t really matter except then we could work more comfortably.

Chef Emmanuel was starting his class in his cuisine lab today, we have used his lab for the last 2 days.  Chef Philippe gave us 3 choices: Go home, Go field trip, Go back up to Pastry Lab and do pastillage at a room temperature of about 30 deg C.  No one chose to go home, so we willingly went back up to the Pastry lab and did pastillage.

My ingredients were used by Chef for demo, I didn’t have to do the pastillage dough.  My conclusion was that it was more difficult watching others do than be doing, I felt conscious of the warmth when I was not doing.  I decided to wash up the stuff at the sink, just then Chef Sebastien came in with the level 1 classes – his and Chef Rudolf’s – about 20 students.  When I turned around, Chef Sebastien greeted me with “Good morning, Joycelyn“, before I could reciprocate, he told his students that I was his student and now I was no longer his student, I no longer greeted him??!!  Not guilty.  Ha, today he said to me 2 times we didn’t greet him … again not guilty.

Back to class and finally I can shape my pastillage.  It looked easy when Chef Philippe was demonstrating to the class, rather he made it look so comfortable and easy.  I enjoyed the feel of pastillage more than chocolate … Use the right tool!  I had taken out a knife with a sharper blade than paring knife for Jillian when Chef left the lab and we didn’t realise a toolbox existed on Chef’s work table with all the scalpels and I had conveniently used the knife on the table to cut instead of the precision blade.  No excuse, got it … Roll out like a tart doughgoshI love tart dough, I mean since day 2 I rolled and shaped tart dough evenly with no issue, but somehow I had a problem – I was too conscious to roll the dough evenly, I forgot to feel and enjoy it.  A simple round strip I measured and cut nicely turned out short, ok next …  the second strip I cut and didn’t measure was not even in height at the closing edge and when I looked at the cross section, it wasn’t even in thickness - I really questioned my heart.  It was just a strip, goodness.  Then the bamboo – I rolled not once, twice, and this time the strip wasn’t long enough to wrap round the pole, tried as I might … “Oh sxxx“, oops I let out a loud exclamation, more to release the congestion in my heart  … I caused a commotion in class.  Chef turned round, “Joy, what did you just say? … You must put this on your blog” Anyway he assured us we still got some time … I knew Chef must have read I seldom swear – I went through level 1 and only cursed under my breath and maybe only after week 5(?), and I was now only on Day 4 in level 2 and I was just doing “play dough” which was supposed to be fun and easy.  I decided I have to find a new word to release any congestion in future – I wasn’t frustrated, I just didn’t feel it and I needed to let go.  Let me think of a new word.

After a break of staring into nothingness (yes, behind a noisy generator), I actually felt better.  I don’t like break room, I don’t like smoke, sometimes I just need a space to breathe some air and stare into nothingness.  But I made an effort sometimes to join my classmates at the stone bench.  The second part was easier – flowers and butterflies.  I loved the third part best – I felt better for the freehand though I had thought otherwise.

The third part – Leaves, and Calla Lilies.  I will only know tomorrow if the stems I did for my Calla Lilies fit.  I was happy Chef introduced Calla Lilies coz I dreamt (rather visualised) about them on my wedding cake, a small bouquet with simple greens with Lily of the Valley.  Last week, at Barnes & Nobles,  I read from a book (ha, and I copied down) that Calla Lilies come in ivory, yellow, orange, light pink, dark pink, red dark burgundy …  More about Calla Lilies – no scent, and it stands for Ardor, Magnificient Beauty, Feminine, ModestyNice.  And they are simple and elegant.  I was looking up Lily because its Chinese name 百合 has a significance for 百年好合, which literally which means 百hundred 年years 好good 合harmony & union, a very good blessing to wedded couples, blessing them to stay in love with each other forever.  But Oriental Lilies appeared too bold (more the size but what is the word?) for the cake.  And Chef recommended we start looking up desired piping to practise for our wedding cake, I was dreaming about how the cake looks and still thinking about the piping fit.

Something must change … or rather I must change myself.  I must relax and enjoy, I must feel it.  Then I thought of tomorrow.  Spray paint the pastillage?… I never painted since high school but again I have a choice tomorrow.  Raffaella told me Chef will teach us the technique.

I enjoyed my class but I really pray that we get the power back.  After 2 weeks of disruption, as much as Chef tried to return us to normacy, I again wondered how these 2 weeks of lost time and momentum can be reinstated without compromising on the value of a diploma certificate from LeNotre Culinary Institute?

“Bubur Cha Cha” Tart, Anyone?

After getting the necessary bakeware the previous week, I decided to practise my favourite Lemon Cream Tart.  I was at Central Market again on Saturday with a list of essential to-buy items … I picked up 5 large lemons, weighed the almond powder (Twice!  The first time I mistakenly put my weighed container onto someone’s cart… oops) … got distracted - I bought a crepe pan, a mini spatula, a bottle of maple syrup – yes, to enjoy my pancakes or crepes with a high doze of maple syrup … Goji berries? Goji berries or wolfberries feature heavily in traditional Chinese medicine, the red colour and sweetness will come to use somehow, so I got some…  I saw some Japanese purple sweet potatoes – I had this when I visited Kamakura back in 2000 and loved it, but I couldn’t think of any use for it then so I gave it a miss.

On the way back to my apartment, the purple sweet potato was still on my mind.  Suddenly, bubur cha cha came to mind.  Bubur cha cha is a coconut cream dessert with both taro and sweet potato in Singapore.  I never knew what the word means, I just found out “bubur” means porridge in Malay.  That moment, I had the idea to made a tart version of bubur chacha.

That evening, I was at H.E.B. to make more purchase, this time I bought a bag of key lime as well.  There was no taro or yam at H.E.B. so I bought the orange sweet potato in case I was serious about making the “bubur chacha” tart.  Strictly, it is not bubur cha cha as the dessert consists of a coconut cream base with yam and sweet potato, rock sugar, sago and pandan leaf, but it is pretty close.

Sunday, I finished the presentation on Chocolate to send to Jennifer.  I quickly cleared my table to make the tartlet dough.  I actually wrapped my table with aluminium foil to have a clean surface to work my dough.  The night before, I had risked disturbing the peace of the neighbourhood by prepping the almond sugar dough, it was about 11pm then.  To the recipe, I have added grated coconut to half of the dough to test my creation.  Back to the afternoon, I was multitasking, doing my weekly laundry as well.

As I was molding the dough into the tartlet tins, I remembered to pre-heat the oven and set the timer to 10 min to remind myself.  Still molding the tartlets …??? … I thought I smelled something burning … when I looked up, smoke was coming out of the oven.  Gosh, the oven had better no break down at this time!  I quickly got up, and just about then 2 alarms went off – one was the timer, I quickly turned it off … I can’t make sense what was the other?  It was a loud shrieky sound.  I turned off the oven.  Then I found the cause of the smoke, I had stored my pebbleware cookie sheet with its paper wrapper in the oven the week before and forgot about it totally.  Just then, I realised I must have tripped the smoke alarm in the apartment…  panic!  I didn’t know what to do, I opened the door and had wanted to ask my neighbour for help, but I guess the smoke dispersed out of the apartment and the alarm stopped.  To augment the drama, a loud siren went by a few minutes later and I prayed hard the fire engine was not coming to my apartment.  Enough of drama for the day.

The tartlets turned out nicely, the 1/2 recipe of coconut almond sugar dough was sufficient for only 12 tartlets tins.  I started to mashed the sweet potatoes which I had steamed in the rice cooker earlier and scraped the mash through a fine sieve.  I have been thinking which recipe I should follow – I decided on pastry cream with gelatin.  I modified the pastry cream recipe to fit in half milk & half coconut cream and the sweet potato puree.  Remembering to cook on medium high, and used a whisk to stir fast and continuously.  Alas, with gelatin, it is done.  I quickly stirred over a bowl of water to bring down the temperature.

Wow!  The cream was exactly sufficient to fill the tartlets.  The cream started to set.  Mission accomplished and started washing up.  I felt happy and relieved, regardless the taste.  I bite into one, I was not sure if I liked the mixture neither warm or cold, but I liked the hint of coconut cream with sweet potato, just like bubur cha cha.  I thought of my first taster (a.k.a. guinea pig) – my neighbour Brad, he was smoking outside his apartment and readily accepted my offer of 2 tarts.  Try it, not sure if you like it, it is sweet potato with coconut cream, I said to him.  Brad learnt about my tripped smoke alarm, he assured me I can just pull out the battery and the alarm would stop.  Back at my apartment, I stared at the ceiling - I hope I would not trip the smoke alarm again??  I put the remaining cooled tartlets into a container and into the fridge.

Just a while back, I took out a refrigerated tart and had another go – not too bad, the coconut-sweet potato combo is stronger when cooled.  I will bring the remaining to school.  Bubur cha cha is usually served hot or cold, I had to serve this cold due to the gelatin.  I was not sure how I can serve this tart warm?

End of trial 1.

A Feast for The Eyes

“I get a 2 day break from you …” Chef Sebastien said to some of us on Tuesday.  For Wednesday and Thursday he would be crossing over to the cuisine lab to prepare for his Thursday Chef’s presentation over lunch.  He had chosen to present Mexican cuisine.  Chef’s wife Jamie, who is Mexican and also a chef, would join him in mise en place and cooking over the 2 days.

During these 2 days, Chef Kris would take over our pastry class.  Chef Kris is Director of Culinary Arts and a Cuisine Chef.  We wondered what Chef Kris was going to teach us, he promised restaurent style desserts and enticed us with some recipes he had planned for us when he visited our class earlier, we were excited. 

Chef Kris in Pastry Class

Our class usually starts at 8.15am, Chef Kris wasn’t in the class yet, he was preparing some ingredients for the desserts we are making.  Chef Philippe asked us to kick-start with chocolate tempering, which we found use in plating later.  No cutter in your tool bag?  No…   We got a little restless, believed Chef Kris did too as he was used to the fast pace in the kitchen.  The chocolate wheels took some time as there was only 1 circle cookie cutter to move around 4 teams.    The rest of us decided to volunteer for the other recipes while waiting for the cutter to come round and things started moving a little better.

Chef, … cups and tsp?

Chef Kris had emphasized building components for dessert plating.  Jennifer and I decided to work on genoise cake for Tres Leches Cake.  “Chef, we don’t know cups and tsp … can we use our own recipes which is by weight?”  Ha, Chef Kris’s recipes came by cups and tsp measurement and we were initially disoriented.  So how many recipes do we prepare?  Chef Kris said “a big tray, about halfway”.  Tray?  But usually we go by round cake tins?  We quickly took our initiative to estimate the number of recipes needed.  Chef Kris passed a measuring spoon and cup to another team who was also confused by the measurement.  We decided on 6 recipes estimated by the number of cake rings needed to cover the tray.  We started whisking over a double boiler till fluffy and ribbon-like, cooled in mixer and folded in the flour.  “Oh, no pink?“  I had not added pink to the genoise recipe, Chef Kris had wanted bright pink for the Mexican Tres Leches cake to go with the Mexican theme of Chef Sebastien.  “It is okay, we’ll have half pink and half vanilla, it is nice, I like it”  His style is very adaptive, make-do, and move-it move-it - he will add some words of encouragement to get us going instead of having us being stunned and clueless.  We must have terrorized him on the first day. 

Whisking All the Way

The cake took 30 min to bake, it filled only 1/3 the height of the big tray.  “I want to have cubes, I need the whole tray to be filled”.   It was already 12pm, the cookie cutter just got to my group, the chocolate then had became very brittle and it was just impossible to cut triangles from it.  We decided to work on the full tray of genoise cake, this time, we decided to go all the way with the recipes so that the whole tray will be filled.  Total of 16 recipes we decided!  I bumped into Chef Sebastien along the corridor, he suggested 10 recipes instead - I convinced him that it is better to have more than sorry.  So we starting whisking again, 4 recipes each per person by Jill, Elizabeth, Jennifer and I.  Alas!  The 16 recipes managed to just fill the tray to the brim.  Great!  It was close to lunch time when the cake went into the oven.  The tray of genoise cake took a full hour and a couple more minutes to finally get done.  By then I had opened the oven and stuck the knife into the cake umpteenth times.  When the day ended, Jennifer and I only remembered we have whisked the whole day, tired and uninspired. (Oh! Forgot a pix of the huge genoise cake)

Day 2 with Chef Kris in Pastry

Today, things felt different.  We moved faster and things started taking forms, besides some mise en place that was completed day earlier, we were also more used to Chef Kris’s style.  We volunteered to prep churros, “Chef, no eggs in the recipe?”  Chef Kris quickly confirmed the recipe will be prep like choux without eggs.  The churros turned out yummy, fried and dusted with cinnamon sugar, better than a choux paste recipe I tried before in Singapore.  He pointed out the secret lies in the addition of lard!  In the mean time, another team prep Kahlua ice cream – oh it was so delicious even though Chef replaced Kahlua with rum & mocha extract.  Love it!  By lunch time we would have Cajeta flan and Tres Leches cakes ready.  I liked the flan with a tinge of citrus lime taste, it was less eggy than the flan we did a few days earlier, Chef Kris advised low temperature in the oven.  The cake was too sweet for me even though the texture is nice.  A day earlier, he passed me a pecan praline candy to try, Like it?  No, I really don’t have a sweet tooth.  Don’t like sweets and in pastry class?  I guess I just need to memorise the taste even if I don’t like the sweetness.

Research Assignment on Chocolate

I love this pix of my classmates & me in the resource centre!

~ I love this pix of my classmates & me in the resource centre! ~

For the next 2 hours before lunch, Chef Kris needed to leave Pastry Lab to teach the assoc class.  He gave us an assignment on Chocolate which Chef Sebastien will grade on per team basis on a score of 100, to be completed in powerpoint, with 5 min presentation per team over lunch the following Tuesday, and each team will cover a different area in chocolate.  Jill and Amanda decided on the origins in plantation of cocao beans, Jennifer and I on harvesting to chocolate paste production, Elizabeth and Quin on components of chocolate and types of chocolate, and Sarah and April on ways that chocolate can be used.  We would spend the next 2 hours researching in the library.  It was pretty interesting scanning through the articles… halfway through I was reading Chocolatier magazines even though they were old editions - great stuff.  Oh I still prefer to be in the Pastry Lab during school hours any time.  Then we saw the lunch menu … and we were waiting eagerly.

Mexican Lunch is Served…

Lunch today was a Mexican feast planned by Chef Sebastien and his wife Jamie, it was sumptuous, more than a food tasting session.  I enjoy Mexican food, I was acquainted with Mexican food when I worked in a Mexican restaurant during pre-college days, I had then helped in mise en place before the restaurant opening hours, and was a server during its regular hours.  What we had today was more varied than the few I knew.  During the lunch presentation by Chef Kris, I learnt that the food varies by different regions of Mexico.  I had Mexican rice, a turkey tamales, some chipotle beef with a tortilla and pork skin in green sauce … I was really full but I still manage to finish a flan, a spoonful of Kahlua ice cream and a bite of Tres Leches cake.  Lunch was different today.  We ate heartily indeed.

The Cheerful Pastillage

When we got back to the Pastry Lab, Level 3 class next to us had rows of pastillage completed for the Gala dinner the following week.  They were so colourful and cheerful – it is just impossible to feel otherwise when you looked at them – they augmented the sugar high in me.  A nice touch before we left class for the day.

~ A Perk-Me-Up!~

~ A Perk-Me-Up!~

Last 2 days had been a different and an enjoyable learning experience.  Looking forward to resume pastry class with Chef Sebastien tomorrow.

A Day in Baking & Pastry Lab

~Jennifer said she will name her cookies Joy in her bakery~

~Jennifer said she will name her cookies Joy in her bakery~

The first recipe we made in class today was cookies.  They were meant for the first coffee break for chefs, students and staff at 10am.  “This recipe is easy huh, prep all the ingredients and mix them in the mixer, except the last ingredient”, Chef Sebastien said.  The last ingredient is chocolate chips.  “We want them to be all different, rows of different colours, communicate …”, Chef Sebastien got us to be creative with our cookies.  He knew we love to come up with our own creations.  Indeed, we got all excited each time Chef allowed us to play with the recipes, it is not often because we need to learn classic recipes.  If it is round, it cannot be square or oval.  He went into shock once when I added green to a joconde biscuit mix all because Jillian and I wanted dark and light green on the final look.  Nice ones, he would usually remind us when he sensed that a few of our creations were going to be over the roof.  He looked satisfied as each team repeated to him the type of cookies we were going to work on. 

Jennifer preferred cookies with nuts, so we decided on orange zest+semi-sweet chocs+pecan nuts.  Jennifer and I partnered each other for a couple of days now.  She is 21 and an American of Mexican-Spanish origin.  We didn’t hear chef’s instruction on the size, we made 15 large, yummy and chewy cookies.  The cookies looked really delicious, and they were.  The other teams made double the amount and half the size.  Never mind that, they were gone before the break was over.  We had Raspberry fruit+puree+white choc+lemon zest from Jill and Amanda, coconut+white choc+dark brown sugar from Elizabeth, strong lemon zest from Roberto, cocoa powder+white choc from Sarah and April.  During the break, Jennifer and I split a cookie each, and we decided we liked our own best - chewy with a light crunch, a tinge of citrus which always goes well with dark choc, as well as Elizabeth’s – hers was crispy with a nice coconut taste, and the dark brown sugar gave the cookies a nice tempting brown.

~We promised to hang this picture up at our bakeries when the other become famous~

~We promised to hang this picture up at our bakeries when the other becomes famous~

Today went smoothly, soon we completed French Meringue and Choc Glaze without any hiccups.  Chef Sebastien attributed it to combinations or partnership between 2 persons.  Next we finished Chocolate Glaze as well as Chocolate and Orange mousse.  This was a far cry from last Friday, my recipe for a simple Chocolate Mousse just didn’t work, not once but twice and when I did the chocolate mousse for the 3rd time, I felt really guilty – instead of 370g of milk chocolate, I had used 1.11kg of it to make a simple recipe of chocolate mousse successfully.  Robert tried to make me feel better, he turned the disastrous lumpy chocolate mixture into a truffle mix, mixing in the leftover joconde biscuit and he said we would have truffles this week.  That helps, I guess.  Chef Sebastien had jokingly told me to include this boo-boo on my blog for tripping over a simple recipe which I had done twice before.  He had asked me then if it is due to the combination, I partnered Quin then.  The only reasonable explanation I could give chef was our mise en place wasn’t done well, a big lesson on mise en place indeed.

We completed 2 chocolate cake recipes today.  I decided that I only love Dark Chocolate, period.  The milk chocolate & orange mousse tasted like condensed milk to me – for someone without a sweet tooth.  Poured over a brownie base?  The brownies we made a day earlier were good, but with “condensed milk” densely surrounding it, I am not sure if I would like it.  We made theses cakes for a wedding reception, requested by a friend of Mr LeNotre.  We needed to deliver 25 cakes, 5 of each type.

The other chocolate cake - Chocolate Marquise Cake – was yummilicious.  A potent combination of chocolate genoise, chocolate pastry cream and a chocolate glaze with a strawberry sauce.  We had this for lunch and it is going to go into My Favourite Desserts – my 3rd!  The strawberry sauce was made by blending strawberry with lemon juice and sugar to taste, then strained.  A dribble over the Chocolate Marquise Cake complemented the dark choc combo.  Slurp!

My day in school ended on a sweet note with the lingering taste of Chocolate Marquise Cake.  

Jennie gave me a ride back to the apartment.  I asked to bring back her sugar work she practised in class today for Level 3 Pastry.  It is a cute little puffer fish!  I told her I would like to have a *mouse instead, she said mouse doesn’t live in the ocean and Chef Philippe has given a underwater theme.  I was introduced to Jennie when I came for the school tour, Jean-Luc introduced me to 2 Asian faces in the school then – Jennie was from Medan, Sacicha was from Bangkok.  They advise and watch over me like big sisters.

***

*mouse – I was hoping to add a sugared mouse into my collection of over 170 of them.  Jennie warned that it will melt,  it certainly showed some sign of it on our way back.  Now the Puffy Fish is still lying pretty as a decor piece on my table, less one spike.

Another Bite of Saint-Honore Chiboust Cake

Another bout of allergy, giving me runny nose, most probably due to the msg content in the can of diced tomatoes and jalepenos sauce I cooked with the fish for dinner.

It is week 7 through the term in Level 1.  Another 3 week and I will be doing my final for level 1 in Baking & Pastry Arts with CIAML.  How time flies when we enjoy and focus on the present.

I just realised the date as I was writing my journal – 19 August, I quickly called my sister via skype to wish her a Happy Birthday.  Singapore time is 13 hours ahead and it is about 2pm in Singapore.  She was standing by the roadside waiting for a cab, mum has cooked her “longevity noodles” for her birthday, as well as packed 卤鸡 (chicken in dark soya sauce stew) and curry chicken for her, David & children for their lunch and dinner.  I miss these treats!

Thinking through the recipes we have completed in the pastry lab for the last 6 week, I really love 2 desserts in particular.  The first one is a simple Lemon Tart with Italian meringue which we did on week 1, the next is of course Saint-Honore Chiboust Cake, which we did on wk 3.  I was reminded of St Honore Chiboust Cake again as Chef Sebastien included it as a keyword for our Monday quiz.

In the quiz today – Q4. What are the four main products you need to make a Saint-Honore cake?  Puff pastry, choux paste, chiboust cream and caramel, I wrote.  A tick for correct answer.  I scored 270 points of a total 300, again missing 30 points for 1 wrong answer.  I don’t call it a mistake as I pondered hard if financiers are small individual pastries or breads with sliced almonds in the bottom, I didn’t know the answer as I thought of financier as bite sized cakes.  

I did some searches on Saint-Honore Chiboust Cake to satisfy my need for information, I rarely have craving for sweets. 

I remembered popping a caramel-coated and chiboust-filled choux into my mouth, … Mmmwa, I loved it!  The caramel gave it a light crunch, complemented by the cool soothing chiboust cream, alongside  the light choux and flaky puff pastry.  As a whole, it did not taste sweet, surprisingly.  By the end of class, I have popped 3.  By the end of lunch, I had eaten a total of 6 choux.  It was simply addictive!  I was on a sugar high.  Be careful, don’t eat too much, or your husband can’t recognise you at the end of the year, warned Chef Sebastien jokingly.  Chef Sebastien doesn’t like sweet stuff, and even when he goes for it, he believes it is just for tasting, ie. in small portion.

As Chef of the Day, I got to present what we served to the school during lunch.  I presented St Honore Chiboust Cake that day,  ”Level 1 Pastry we are serving St-Honore Chiboust Cake.  The bottom layer is a puff pastry topped with a layer of choux paste ring, baked and coated with caramel and filled with chiboust cream.  It is them lined with small caramel-coated choux, also filled with chiboust cream.  The cake is covered with chantilly cream.  The caramel crown is optional.”   This was the second time I presented.  In week 1, I got to present my other favourite – the Lemon Cream Tart.  It made presenting to a dining room of about 50 chefs, students and staff so much yummier when I love the desserts!

In Chocolate Epiphany, Chef Francoise Payard shared a chocolate variation of Saint Honore cake.  He wrote that the contrast between the textures of the components from puff pastry,  to small choux filled with pastry cream and dipped in caramel is unique.  He had given the recipe a chocolate twist by using chocolate choux and chocolate pastry cream.

I learnt & am still learning…  , Saint Honoré (pronounced o-naw-ray) cake is a traditional French cake named for Saint Honoré, the patron saint of pastry bakers.  According to Saint Honoré Boulangerie website, as tradition goes, a young man named Honoré became the Bishop of Amiensin 554. During his service a number of miraculous events occurred, which spared farmers, millers, and bakers from natural disasters. Residents of France connected the miracles with Bishop Honoré and in 1204 a Parisian baker built a chapel to commemorate him. Today, the chapel is no longer standing, but the name, Saint Honoré, is etched in a gate leading to Faubourg and Rue Saint Honoré in the heart of Paris.  (Added info:  Chef Sebastien shared that St Honore Cake was popular in bakeries in France in 1970s).

I also read that Pastry Chef Chiboust is rumoured to have created it in his Paris shop in 1846.  Before the search, I did not know that Chiboust is the name of a pastry chef?  The middle of the cake is filled with Chiboust cream using a piping bag and the signature Chiboust/St. Honoré tip?  I didn’t know there is a piping tip named after Chiboust or St Honore.  The cake is sometimes also referred to as “ball cake”?  May 16th was Saint Honore Day, to commemorate the day he passed away more than 1260 years ago…

So awesome!  So much history over a cake I enjoyed making and eating in class.